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The determining factor for whether creams work has to be science. Just because you can put an ingredient in a test tube in the lab and it stimulates collagen production, does not necessarily mean that if you rub it on your skin you are going to get rid of wrinkles. Lab results do not always translate to the effects you can achieve when using a product in a jar that gets exposed to air once or twice a day, and may not be used in sufficient quantities or consistently enough to reap the rewards. Despite the common belief that moisturizers are the mainstay of all skin care regimes, they are quite often overused. All moisturizers have the potential to clog pores and cause irritation, and are best used mainly on dry skin areas. Older, thinner skins need richer moisturizers. Aside from the usual humectants and emollients, moisturizers today are also loaded with antioxidants, AHAs and BHAs, botanical soothing agents such as bisabolol, allantoin, licorice, chamomile, green tea extract, and sunscreens. One important moisturising agent is Hyaluronic Acid, the same component found in injectable wrinkle fillers like Restylane® and Juvederm® Ultra, which reduces dryness and plumps up the cells because it literally holds the water into the skin to repair the barrier. Hero Product - Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultimate Youth Crčme Vitamin A is a very versatile vitamin. The trick with retinol, a potent vitamin A relative, is that it is sensitive to light and oxidation, but if it is stabilized and at a high enough concentration, studies have proven that you can get similar effects to the prescription strength Retin-A or tretinoin. Retinyl palmitate has less of an effect than retinol so you will need to use more of it. Retinol’s main skin benefits are lines, texture, blotches, sun damage and spots. Hero Product - RoC® Retinox + Serum Max Collagen fibers are made up of peptides, which are proteins known for skin strengthening and smoothing out lines. Several peptides have been shown to generate the production of new collagen, most notably the pentapeptide (meaning 5 amino acid chains) PAL-KTTS which is commonly known as Matrixl, and the hexapeptide (as in 6) called Argirilene. Over time, with continued use, peptides will maintain skin tone and texture. Women give up on their skin care way too soon, often in the first few days before it has time to work. It takes at least two months to make new collagen, so stick with it. Hero Product - Olay Regenerist Microsculpting Cream Antioxidants function as free radical scavengers so they are best thought of as photoprotectors, which means that they can enhance sun protection during daylight exposure. There are a handful of major antioxidants that can improve the appearance of ageing skin, and about a zillion minor ones. The most important antioxidants in skin care include green Tea, vitamin A, Ascorbic Acid – C, Vitamin E, Grapeseed, Pomegranate, Alpha Lipoic Acid. There is no one top antioxidant to go for – rather there are several good ones in age reversing skin care. When it comes to antioxidants, the easiest way to incorporate them into your skin care regime is in a moisturizer with built in antioxidants. Some antioxidants have a shorter shelf life – as in vitamin C – which oxidizes when it is exposed to air, so jars and tubes should be tightly sealed and kept in a dark cool place. Hero Product – Neutrogena Anti Oxidant Age Reverse Day Lotion SPF20 Glycolic acids in the form of AHAs and BHAs are multi-purpose skin care ingredients. They work for acne, oily skin, fine lines, pigment, blotches, and dull texture. Glycolic acids derived from fruits or plants also improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by causing some mild swelling of the dermis. When choosing a glycolic acid product, the two key factors are the concentration of acid in the product as well as its pH, which has an effect on the concentration of acid. Glycolic acids are a first class exfoliant and also helps draw other ingredients deeper into the skin, such as acne and bleaching agents. Hero Product – DDF Glycolic 10% Exfoliating Moisturizer Just because your bathroom is brimming with jars and tubes, does not mean you have to slather on every one of them on a daily basis. Edit your list to choose only the ones that fit your skin type and specific needs, and find a regime that works with your daily schedule so you will be able to keep it up. Too much of a good thing is not always a good thing. Fueled by the desire to see immediate results, consumers often resort to layering several, often conflicting, creams, lotions and gels. You have to think about whether each product is compatible with the other that you are putting on the same face at the same time. Resist the pressure to get all your favorite skincare products applied in a single day. Try alternating days when using various products in order to get them into your routine. All products should only be applied to clean skin and potentially irritating ingredients should not be layered at the same time. Apply the products with the lightest consistency first; for example, use them in ascending order such as serum, gel, cream. If you use the cream first, it may create a barrier so the gel and serum formulas are less likely to penetrate and will just be wasted. Active skin care requires more attention than your mother’s simple moisturizer. It is best to apply your sun sensitizing treatments, such as retinol or glycolic acid, at bedtime to avoid any reaction when your skin comes into contact with the sun. Sunscreen should be last step before your makeup goes on. You will get better protection from a dedicated sunscreen product than from a day moisturizer or foundation that doubles as a sun protectant. Wendy Lewis, The Knife Coach®, is President of Wendy Lewis & Co Ltd, a global aesthetics consultancy offering private consultations in New York, London, Paris and Palm Beach, and via phone from all over the world. She is the author of ten books on beauty and anti-aging, including Plastic Makes Perfect: The Complete Cosmetic Beauty Guide (Orion 2008). www.wlbeauty.com, www.plasticmakesperfectbook.com www.HealthNewsDigest.com Top of Page 
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